Cath Bond - Art Online

December 6th, 2005 - Understanding the textile world

Tuesday, 06 December, 2005 - 21:25

I have chosen a textile pieces from home that I would like to spend time analysing and making notes on.

This shawl is owned by my grandmother and has been in the family since she was little. Although it is a “welsh paisley” shawl and became acceptable as part of the Welsh national costume, the paisley design doesn’t originate from Wales – it is from Kashmir in India.

The Shawl was a popular gift brought home from India and the East and when these became a fashion item, mills in Europe began to reproduce them:

"“It's possible to trace the origins of the pattern we recognise as 'Paisley'back to the civilisation of Babylon, 2000 years ago. It was introduced to Europe in the 18th Century when silk shawls were imported from Kashmir. Such an exotic design become very popular, and soon they were in great demand. How this was possible, it's difficult to understand since, even at the time, customers had to pay £200 - £300 per shawl. As with every craft the price doesn't reflect the craftmanship, since it used to take about a year and a half to weave one shawl. The weavers of Paisley in Scotland monopolised the production of the shawl and once again it was seen as a fashionable garment, and is now considered an essential part of our Welsh costume.”
Source

My grandmother’s shawl was originally bought for her christening in 1922, along with her twin sister. My great grandmother couldn’t afford two scarves so she borrowed the second one. This shawl was produced by printing the design onto fine wool or cotton. I can tell that this is the case because this was the cheapest method of creation, and my great grandmother couldn’t afford an expensive shawl. Also, the shawl itself has a flat look to it that would come about through this type of production. It doesn’t have the qualities that a hand-made shawl would have e.g. kinks, flaws, a different kind of finish. After the Christening, my great grandmother may well have used the shawl to wrap her twins up in their pram. My grandmother now owns the shawl and she keeps it wrapped up safe as an heirloom.

What does it tell me about my great grandmother?
It tells me that my great grandmother respected custom. It would have been the custom of the day for babies to be christened in welsh paisley. It also tells me that my grandmother was very aware of her nationality and culture. I have also learned that my great grandmother was probably quite poor when her children were born, as she could only afford one shawl which was probably mass produced. Nevertheless, the shawl must have been highly valued by my great grandmother as she ensured that my grandmother treasured it.

I have really come to like this textile piece because the shawl now has a history attached to it. Textile pieces are more than just pieces of material. They can represent many things – one’s culture, one’s feelings, the joy of a particular occasion. What is pertinent for me is that it can tell me about my grandmother’s past.

Author: cath
Categories: textiles, welsh paisley,
Comments: 0